Thursday, July 28, 2011

Heading Home

Thursday July 28

While staying at my brother's place in Kitty Hawk, we had to find someting to do with the RV. The best solution we could find was to park it at the National Park campground at Cape Hatteras National Seashore. We spent our last night in the RV so that we could get an early start the next morning. It was a hot night since, like most park service campgrounds, there was no electric hookup and generators are not allowed after dark.

I'm writing this as we travel down I-95, on our way home. We expect to be home by tomorrow afternoon, almost exactly three months after our departure date on April 30th. It has been a wonderful trip. And while we're sad that it is coming to an end, we're looking forward to sleeping in our king sized bed and showering in our big modern tiled shower where I don't have to take "navy showers."

We have had a wonderful combination of adventures and managed to see each of our five children at least once. I also saw all five of my brothers and sisters, six neices and nephews, and many old friends. We made several new friends along the way. We visited six national parks (three in Canada) as well as many national historic sites and memorials. We tasted our way through quite a few wineries, and relaxed at several beaches.

The Best and the Worst

Best Campground: Disney's Fort Wilderness
Worst Campground: Fancy Gap KOA
Best Museum: The Lincoln Museum in Springfield
Best Meal: New Glasgow Lobster Suppers, PEI
Worst Meal: Baldwin's Crab House, Abingdon, MD
Best Road: Skyline Dr in Virginia
Worst Road: I-86 in New York State
Best Golf Course: New Glasgow Golf Club, PEI
Most fun on a golf course: Playing with Matt in Chicago
Scariest Time: Being so close to Joplin, Mo during the terrible tornado and seeing the storm chasers and all of their equipment headed for Central Missouri as we were headed out and away but traveling along the projected storm paths.

Court Jester's final:
Overall, the Liberty performed well. We stayed comfortable for the entire 3 months and never felt like we needed a break from the tight quarters. The Liberty handled pretty well once I got used to it and performed much better than expected in the mountains. The combination of the tow-haul feature in the transmission along with the surge braking system in the Saturn worked pretty well with just a couple of minor hiccups that should be addressed before we go out again.

On the negative side: The Pressure Pro System was a complete bust. I had 10 total sensors. Of that ten, 4 went bad within the first month. Bad sensors could have played in the major leagues with that .400 batting average. Some other problems with the wiring and generator will have to be addressed by the factory after we get home. Best of all, no leaks!!!

Kitty Hawk, NC

Monday July 25 - Thursday July 28

We spent three relaxing nights in Kitty Hawk, NC. My brother and sister-in-law, Bob and Laura Cromwell, have been renting a beach house on the outer banks of North Carolina for the past few years. When they realized that we would be passing through NC on our way down the parkway, they invited us to join them. They rented a nice place right on the beach with a beautiful ocean view. The beach was wide and clean and the ocean was a perfect temperature.
Blob with Beer



Rick and I spent a morning at the Wright Brothers Memorial and found it fascinating. Orville and Wilbur Wright were self-taught engineers who ran a bicycle shop In Dayton, OH. They pretty much built every part of their planes themselves. They tried to get Ford and several other engine manufacturers to design an engine for them, but nobody was interested. So they were obliged to design and build one themselves, despite having virtually no previous knowledge of engines. They funded all their experiments with profits from their bike shop. Their perseverance and courage is truly inspiring.

Blue Ridge Parkway / Julian Price Memorial Park

Saturday July 23 - Monday July 25

We arrived at Julian Price campground on a Saturday night and encountered our first crowded park service campground since beginning our journey on Skyline Drive several weeks ago. We still had no problem getting a campsite, just much less to choose from. This may be because this campground is on a lake which allows boating and fishing. Many campers had canoes, kayaks, and small fishing boats.

The highlight of this area was the Blue Ridge Craft Center, located in the former Moses Cone estate. Moses Cone made his fortune in textiles and built himself a mansion on the Blue Ridge on 3,500 acres. His two sisters were the Cone sisters who donated the wonderful "Cone Collection" to the Baltimore Museum of Art.
The Moses Cone Estate


We have decided to make this our last stop on the Blue Ridge Parkway, opting to head east to the outerbanks to join my brother and sister-in-law at the beach house they have rented for two weeks in Kitty Hawk, NC.
The Blue Ridge

Blue Ridge Parkway / Fancy Gap, VA

Thursday July 21 -Saturday July 23

We made a brief exit from the National Park campgrounds in order to visit the Fancy Gap area of the Blue Ridge Parkway. This is the area of Virginia where bluegrass music was born. Being a big fan of bluegrass and old-timey music, this was a must stop for me.

The Blue Ridge Music Center is located right on the parkway and is a really good museum devoted to the history of mountain music, specifically, bluegrass, old-timey, and gospel. In addition to the excellent exhibits, they host a daily jam session of any mountain musicians who care to participate. There was an old guy playing the banjo who had to have been 90 years old.


The rangers at the Music Center sent us to Galax, VA to hear some live bluegrass music. We had some of the best barbeque I've ever eaten at a place called The Smokehouse, followed by a concert at the Rex Theater. The Rex is an old fashioned movie house that has been converted into a concert hall. We heard a group called "The Zephyr Lightning Bolts" which had some wonderful musicians, but was a bit weak in the vocal department.


We took a daytrip to Mt Airy, NC. Remember Andy of Mayberry? Andy Griffith grew up in Mt Airy and "Mayberry" was based on it with many of the people and places being real. We were both fans of the show as children. The Andy Griffith Museum was interesting, if not very well organized. It's pretty amazing to think about the talent that came out of that show: Andy Griffith, of course, had a long career on the big and small screen, Ron Howard (Opie) is one of the best modern film directors, Don Knotts (Barney) was an amazing comedian, and Jim Nabors (Gomer Pyle) had great success as a singer as well as an actor. The show had several spin-offs, and reamins popular on cable re-runs to this day.& One of the spin-offs was Gomer Pyle, USMC. Rick reports that when he was in the Marine Corps they were not very happy with that show and that you didn't dare make any Gomer Pyle jokes.

Don't you just want to whistle?

Three Crime Fighters

The weather has been really hot, although it's been tolerable at the higher elevations. Since Fancy Gap is a relatively low elevation, we stayed at a KOA campground in order to get an electric hook-up which allowed us to run our air conditioner. KOA campgrounds are kind of like the Holiday Inns of campgrounds: you know what you're getting, but it's not much. The sites were close together and uninteresting compared with the wonderful National Park sites that we've been frequenting recently. Although we enjoyed our activities in the area, we weren't sorry to leave.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Blue Ridge Parkway / Rocky Knob

Monday July18 - Thursday July21

We were glad to get out of the hotel and back into our "own beds" in the RV. That's one of the joys of this kind of travelling...you bring your "home" with you, however cramped.  There's no moving in and out of hotel rooms, and you're always sure just how clean it's going to be.

We jumped back onto the Parkway and had a short drive to our next stop, a National Park Service campground called Rocky Knob.  We liked it much better than the last one. Our site was pretty, level, and very private. But best of all, I had two Verizon bars, so I could catch up on the bills, my correspondence, etc.

While here we visited an attraction called Mabry Mill. The mill and other buildings were built and used from about 1905 until 1935 by a mountain resident named Ed Mabry. A very industrious sort, Ed had a blacksmith shop, a saw mill, a grist mill, and a woodworking shop to supply himself and his neighbors. It's a lovely spot that our photograph doesn't do justice. The park service has done a great job of restoring and maintaining it. Ranger historians are available to demonstrate period crafts and operate the mill.  We had a great talk with a ranger who was demonstrating chair caning. We asked if there was any local civil war history and he explained that the mountain people in Virginia had been very pro-Union. Not being slave owners they didn't have a stake in the outcome. They felt it was a "rich man's war being fought by poor people."

Mabry Mill has a wonderful little restaurant onsite. We had breakfast there one day and dinner the next. The breakfast was a highlight with wonderful country ham and a pancake sampler platter with buckwheat, corn, and sweet potato pancakes.

Mabry Mill
My friend Betty would love this quilt depiction of the mill hanging in the restaurant
Virginia has a number of excellent wineries and we enjoyed an afternoon at Chateau Morrissette. Their Petit Verdot is excellent if you ever get a chance to try it.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Blue Ridge Parkway/ Peaks of Otter & Roanoke

Friday July 15 - Sunday July 17

Skyline Drive meets the Blue Ridge Parkway in Waynesville, VA. It continues for 465 miles, ending in Tennessee at Great Smoky Mountains National Park. This is the last segment of our trip before we head for home.  I don't think we will make it all the way to the end, but we're liking it so much here that you never know.

We left Big Meadows on Friday the 15th and traveled 142 miles to mile marker 86 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Peaks of Otter area and campground. While we thought the Peaks of Otter area was lovely, we weren't particularly impressed with the campground. The sites were small and unlevel, and the picnic table was down a steep hill from our site.  Apparently we aren't the only ones who are unimpressed as it was practically empty on a Friday night in mid-summer. There was a very nice park service lodge next door with beautiful views of a little lake.  We ate way too much at a seafood buffet there and tried to work it off with a walk around the lake.



The highlight of this stop was a day trip to Appomattox Courthouse National Historic Site.  The park service has done a really good job of recreating the scene where, on April 9th, 1865, Gen. Robert E. Lee surrendered his Army of  Northern Virginia to Gen. Ulysses S. Grant, effectively ending the war of Northern Aggression...whoops, I must be back at Jeff Davis' house in Mississippi where we were almost three months ago and where the tour guide kept referring to "President Davis."


While we were in Shenandoah, we developed a problem with our generator, so we briefly left the parkway and spent Sunday night at a Country Inn and Suites in Roanoke, VA while we had it repaired. We were back on the parkway by 2pm and on to the next adventure.

Monday, July 18, 2011

Shenandoah National Park & Skyline Dr

Sunday July 10 - Friday July 15
Rick and I visited Shenandoah National Park on our first camping trip together, and have been in love with it ever since. We kind of look at it as "our" place. We had booked a site for 3 nights, but ended up extending our stay for two extra nights.

Our campsite at Big Meadows

Skyline Drive is a lovely road that winds it's way between Front Royal and Waynesville Virginia.  It is 105 miles long, but with a maximum speed of 35 mph, and amazing vistas and wildlife along the way, it's a long trip.  We saw two bears cross the road on our way to Big Meadows Campground.  Rick got this shot of a buck in the campsite right next to ours.


Big Meadows is a lovely campground.  It has no hookups, so we were as close to "real" camping as we've been on this trip. The RV has holding tanks for fresh and waste water, and we have batteries and a generator to provide power, so, really, we had all the comforts of home. But it's really a challenge to conserve fresh water and to conserve space in the waste water holding tanks. I've become quite good at taking a "navy shower": wet yourself down, turn off the water, shampoo and wash, rinse. Will they still call me "her majesty"?

We took several hikes from the campground.  The appalachian trail parallels Skyline Drive, and we enjoyed hiking parts of it. Rick hiked a considerably longer portion of it than I did. Here are some nice photos from these hikes.








MONTPELIER

We came down off the mountain for a day in order to visit James Madison's home and museum, called Montpelier.  The temperature difference between the mountain top where we were camping and Montpelier was almost 15 degrees.  We couldn't wait to get back up the mountain!

Madison was our fourth president and the primary architect of the contstitution as well as the bill of rights. His home was beautiful and the tour was very well done. There was also lots of information about his wife, Dolley Madison, who was very popular. She is credited with saving the painting of George Washington when the British burned the white house during the war of 1812.

Like his fellow Virginians Jefferson and Washington, Madison was a slave holder. And like them, he was tortured by the fact that he knew slavery was wrong.  Yet they all continued to hold slaves throughout their lives. Though they knew it was wrong, their entire lifestyles were built on the institution, and it was as if they didn't know how to get out of it.

Montpelier
After baking in the heat at Montpelier, we managed to find a local vineyard and cooled off with some good wine.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Philadelphia & NYC

Date: Wednesday July 6 – Sunday July 10

We were in the Philadelphia area for several days. Actually, it’s New Jersey, but Philadelphia sounds much better. A not particularly interesting campground in Clarksboro, NJ was the closest place we could find to Philadelphia. Turned out it was a pretty easy commute.

We spent a day and an evening in the historic district seeing the sites.  Despite having lived in Baltimore most of my life, I had never seen Independence Hall. We enjoyed seeing the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and Congress Hall where the first Congress met. For lunch, we split a delicious philly cheese steak and we ate a delicious dinner at City Tavern where George Washington, Jefferson, and Adams used to dine. We saw several properties that Benjamin Franklin owned and sent a postcard from his post office.
Interior of Independence Hall


Congress Hall whereCongress met before moving to DC


Liberty Bell

One of the highlights of our day was a very good museum about the constitution. It was new, interactive, and high tech. It did a good job of presenting the original debates and process, showing the tensions and conflicts between the states and the compromises that were ultimately reached. While we found this museum to be both interesting and educational, we have been forever spoiled by the amazing Lincoln museum that we saw in Springfield. There was just no comparison.
Really, it WAS good!



Valley Forge

We spent a day at the Valley Forge encampment site and visitor’s center.  We took a trolley tour that included Washington’s headquarters. No battle was ever fought at Valley Forge. It is the site of where Washington and the Continental Army spent the winter and spring of 1777 and 1778 while the British army occupied Philadelphia. Rick read Newt Gingrich’s book on Valley Forge last winter, so he was particularly interested in the topic.

Huts where the soldiers spent the winter


Washington's Headquarters
Baron Von Steuben


Parade Grounds



NYC

On Saturday we left the RV in New Jersey and drove the Saturn the 90 miles into New York City. We met my step-sister Emma and her husband Henry for dinner in Chinatown.  Henry is Chinese, and he orders things that aren’t even on the menu.  It’s always an experience and this was no exception.

After dinner the four of us went to my daughter Emmy’s new off off Broadway play. She is directing a modern adaptation of Ibsen’s “Ghosts”, and I’ve got to say it was wonderful.  Her friend Andrew Janet did the adaptation, and the play is being staged at a haunted house.  The acting was top notch and, naturally, the directing was superb.  Equity rules prohibited me from taking any pictures during the show, but Emmy provided me with these cast pictures.  Can you tell how proud I am?




Friday, July 8, 2011

More Baltimore

Ten days in Baltimore went surprisingly quickly. Interestingly, it doesn't feel like home anymore.

The best part of our visit was connecting with old friends and family. My friend Lydia had her annual crab feast for a bunch of old Bryn Mawr friends.  It was held on the third floor of her wonderful old house in Roland Park. This was the apartment that she so kindly put me up in for 3 months when I was homeless, after our house sold. It has a great third floor deck which feels like a tree house. The crabs were great and the company was even better. Since Rick wasn't there, though, I have no pictures.  One of these days I'm going to learn to work the camera!

Our good friends Debbie and Andy Hermann had another party for a bunch of my old friends from the State's Attorney's office. Rick and his camera were there, so here are some fun pictures.
Joyce, Barabara, Sally, Mary & Deb after too many Margaritas. We broke the hammock in 2 places!
My old friends Sherrie and Drew Bailey arrived later, so Sherrie wasn't available for the group pictures.

Independence Day brought another crab feast, this one hosted by us at our campsite.  Rick's daughter Keriann was there with her two boys, Corey and Tristan. And Rick's son Mark and daughter-in-law, Cristin, were there with their new "babies."
Corey, Keriann, Tristan
Cristin w/Chip, Mark w/Tater


Saturday, July 2, 2011

Back "Home" to Baltimore

Date: Sunday June 26 - Wednesday July 6

We intended to stop for the night half way between New Hampshire and Baltimore.  But unfortunately, the only options required significant detours from our route. There wasn't even a Cracker Barrel. So we ended up making the whole drive in one day. It took us about twelve hours including a dinner break. The posted price for a 2 axle vehicle to cross the Delaware Memorial Bridge is $3.00. Our 2 axle RV plus the Saturn that we're towing should have cost $6.00, no? They charged us $16!!!!!!!!!!

We're "camping" at an RV "park" in Abingdon, MD. The site we have is actually quite nice, with a lovely panoramic view of the Bush River. We've got the coveted "full hookup," to include electric, water, sewer, cable, and wifi. The downside to this arrangement is that they have the campsites packed in like sardines, so we've got little to no privacy.  And it's Independence Day weekend, so the campground is full and everyone wants to party hearty.

Since we arrived in Maryland we've accomplished a lot. I've had doctor's appointments, haircut and color, a pedicure, and gone shopping at old favorite locations. We've seen family and lots of old friends. We've met with financial and legal advisors. And I've eaten lots of crab cakes. I've been crab cake deprived since leaving Maryland in December 2009.  I don't think there's a decent one anywhere in Florida.